My Southern journey is almost over—I’ve arrived in Awasa and expect to get back to Addis Ababa tomorrow afternoon. During my trip around the South I saw zebras, hippos and massive birds. I drove by a naked boy painted white walking on stilts and was kissed by a teenage Hamer girl at a traditional Hamer night dance.

My patience was tested by kids yelling “youYouYOU!” and by others asking for water bottles. I taught two little kids in Tingri how to do one-handed cartwheels on Easter after driving around for four hours unsuccessfully trying to find a Jumping of the Bulls ceremony. At the Dimeka market I made a friend named Galteh who asked me why I was wearing so many clothes.

Overall—despite the food, crummy hotels, crummier roads, biting flies and constant request for money—it was an amazing experience. I spent well over twice my target budget but reaching these last remaining traditional tribes was more than worth it.