Me-go Mix: Track 8
“Wanaume Mabinti” — Lady JayDee
To download using Windows “right click” and save to disk. Mac users, you know what to do.

At the end of my trip I wanted to buy some music that reminded me of my time in Eastern Africa. A lot of the music heard around town is not local (Shakira is quite popular), but the local music I did hear varied and no one song stuck in my head. I ended up buying a compilation called “Bongo Flava” from a music shop in downtown Nairobi. A quick listen at the shop confirmed it was the sort of music I heard around town. I don’t have a lot to say about this song other than Lady Jay Dee’s music was some of my favorite on the CD. It turns out she’s from Tanzania and has had a number of controversial hits in the past few years.

Below is a video for a different song by Lady Jay Dee, “Distance.” She sings in Swahili, Zulu, Lingala, Kinyarwanda, French and English in this song.

While looking for some files the other day I stumbled upon fifteen videos from Myanmar (Burma) that I neglected to upload to Vimeo with the last batch. Visit my Vimeo page directly and look a the “newest” videos to see them all.

Sweeping the Shwedagon from Megan Kearney on Vimeo.

There’s been a lot of talk in the travel community about a Lonely Planet writer’s admission that he wrote for a guidebook without actually traveling to the country. This isn’t surprising to those of us who have used Lonely Planet Guides over some time. Everywhere I go I hear Lonely Planet cursed. Travelers curse the inaccurate maps and out of date prices and business owners curse the authors for bad reviews or no reviews at all. Admission into the “LP” can put an entire town “on the travel map,” as it did with Muang Ngoi in Northern Laos, or put a restaurant out of business when it isn’t included in the newest edition.

Guidebooks have become a big business and keeping up-to-date information published is difficult in the internet age. Guidebooks to popular regions are always updated more frequently, after all it is a business. Less popular regions, like Central Asia, aren’t updated frequently because the small number of people who visit can’t offset the cost of updating the guide and provide the same kind of profits as a guide to Europe or Southeast Asia. Of course, Lonely Planet is the only guidebook publisher that I know of offering a “Central Asia” guidebook so most travelers are stuck with an out of date book. Still, something is better than nothing and LP’s Central Asia is coveted by travelers in the region—I refused to lend it out on numerous occasions for fear of never seeing it again.

After traveling around Central Asia for two months I met a supposed Lonely Planet author in Osh, Kyrgyzstan. I was happy to help him better the next edition of the book, after being so disappointed with the current one. Despite being a region with a complex and fascinating history and infinite tourist potential it measured in at about fifth the size of the Thailand book, despite covering six countries. When I met the author, on his first assignment for LP, he was arranging a private taxi tour around Southern Kyrgyzstan accompanied by the owner of our guesthouse as a guide. I can understand the difficulties of traveling in the region without speaking Russian but am disappointed with the way he chose to research the book. He also brushed off any attempts for my help or information and asked for the Western men sitting on either side of me for their email in case he thought of any more questions. He had no interest whatsoever in a woman’s perspective regarding travel in the region. How could this man, around my age and also a graphic designer, have any more insight that I do? It was obvious that he hadn’t done any research before arriving (he didn’t know about the Chinese border closing/October holiday) and skipped border crossings and regions that didn’t fit into his hurried schedule. In talking to him it was clear that more important information would be left out of the next edition.

Ultimately, Lonely Planet has forsaken quality for profit to it’s own detriment. It’s writers are barely paid enough to cover their own travel and rewarded for doing less in-depth research by LP’s lump sum payment method. Writers can only make a profit by quickly skimming the surface, replacing personal investigation with unreliable sources. I understand the need for profit in business but at some point the scales tip and you lose customers. Lonely Planet has recently been bought by BBC Worldwide and if anything, changes seem to be leading toward more profit and a more upscale readership. It’s doubtful that the writer’s admissions will have much affect on Lonely Planet’s bottom line, but will surely help promote the writer’s new book.

Me-go Mix: Track 7
“Gondar” — Madingo Afework
To download using Windows “right click” and save to disk. Mac users, you know what to do.

Traveling around Northern Ethiopia I spent a lot of time on buses, including four days round trip to Lalibela. The long rides were always accompanied by upbeat and high-pitched music. Before I left Addis Ababa I wanted to pick up a CD of music that would remind of me of my long bus rides through the North. The music shop next to my hotel, where I rented DVDs to watch while I was in bed with the flu for three days, had a small collection to pick from. The woman working was confused as to why I wanted to buy traditional music instead of more modern imports (but she also didn’t understand why I would want to watch a movie that didn’t star Denzel Washington, her favorite actor). We weeded out anything too traditional and decided on Mandingo Afework. The music has the rhythm I heard all over Ethiopia but wasn’t played with only traditional instruments.

Gondar is a city in Northern Ethiopia famous for it’s castles and the beautiful Debre Birhan Selassie Church. In the video for “Gondar” below, you’ll see some shots of the city as well as Lalibella, Axum and a few shots of the South. Most interesting are the beautiful dancers in traditional white robes. The dancers show off Ethiopia’s distinctive shoulder dancing, often laughingly attempted by tourists. Fast forward to 5:00 in the video for a good example of an enthusiastic shoulder dance.

Below is a video I took on a bus in Northern Ethiopia. Although bus music was often more traditional, you can hear a local recording of “Staying Alive” playing. The music on each bus was usually chosen by the bus driver or his assistant from a collection of cassettes. Once I witnessed an older man, probably a farmer, insist a driver play his own tape. This incited a lot of discussion among the other passengers—most objected to the traditional “folksy” music he wanted to play.

Ethiopian Bus Music from Megan Kearney on Vimeo.

Me-go Mix: Track 6
“Manahirana” — Lola
To download using Windows “right click” and save to disk. Mac users, you know what to do.

The owner of the music store forced the employee to pose for this picture against his will. After I was finished everyone looked at the photo and made fun of him, poor guy.

The following video of “Manahirana” is a good example of the fashions worn outside of the capital. You’ll notice the skirts are similar to kangas worn in East Africa, particularly Zanzibar. Woven straw hats are popular in Madagascar and come in countless shapes and colors. I spotted the square woven hats worn by the women in this video on two people in Madagascar and liked them so much I tried to find out where to buy one, showing the sketch I drew to people around the market. I was told the hat is from Fianarantsoa, the largest town South of the capital.

I also stumbled upon the video for song #1 (I Gasikara) on the mix. It’s a great overview of Madagascar, excluding the National Parks and the hard to reach South. Lola starts out in the Northwest tip of Madagascar on an Island called Nosy Be. Most people who go on “holiday” to Madagascar stop in a National Park to see a lemur and then head up to Nosy Be. Even I wouldn’t take the bus (more of a truck, really) up there because of the awful roads. There’s now direct flights from France to Nosy Be, bypassing the capital entirely.

Next Lola pops up in Antananarivo, the capital, to dance down the main street in town in front of the train station. I bought my first copy of Lola’s music just to his left in front of the Air Mad office. This is not an area to be wandering alone at night.

He then continues down the Route National 7 South, stopping in many of the same towns I visited on my trip. He makes his way by road all the way to Tulear in the Southwest and then heads North to the beach town of Ifaty. From Tulear I headed South instead, to Anakao because it was supposed to be more deserted. The roads you see him walking down are the same I drove in for six hours at a time in a packed minibus.

I knew the U.S. Military was desperate for recruits but I didn’t know how much so.

This morning I got a call from a woman inquiring about my “interest in the military.” Apparently I was put on a list as someone who “indicated an interest in the military.” Fess up, which one of you signed me up? I simply laughed and asked her if it was a crank call. She was nice about it but couldn’t explain how a thirty year-old liberal woman got on the list. If they want to recruit me to be a spy they need to be upfront about it. I admit that 50% of “normal” Americans I meet think I’m in the CIA already but I swear it’s not true! I wonder if this is because I listed Delta Force as one of my favorite movies on Facebook? I admit I’ve always wanted to go to Lebanon, but not as part of an “elite strike force.”

Me-go Mix: Track 5
“Superstar” — S.H.E. (女朋友)
To download using Windows “right click” and save to disk. Mac users, you know what to do.

This song was everywhere during my first trip to China in Phase I. It was blasting from every other storefront, sung by teenagers walking down the street and playing every time I turned on the TV. S.H.E., a Taiwanese trio formed from the winners of a singing contest, was huge in China. Although this is the only song I heard of theirs they have apparently released ten albums and amassed 4.5 million in sales. That’s no flash in the pan.

The Superstar video

I am in the process of doing a little housekeeping on this blog and the supporting pages. I appreciate that so many of you have written to tell me how well-organized the site is, but there must be something that is hard to find or confusing. As a usability test I’d appreciate any feedback on things that could be done to make the site even better. This is your chance to complain about my navigation or even to yell at me to write the “country profiles” or finish the last few African maps in the route section. Although I’m mostly interested in the design, usability and navigation of the site I’ll take whatever you got.

The upcoming release of WordPress 2.5 (the software that powers my blog) is the main reason I’ve decided to address the design. I’m running an older version that has become a little broken over time, which is why my subscriptions don’t work as they should. If you would like to unsubscribe from Me-go updates please send me an email or comment and I will manually take you off. The current system isn’t working properly and I don’t want to be the cause of unwanted email. With my recent increase in posting I can understand that those of you that were happy with an email every three weeks aren’t so happy with an email every three days. My policy is that my immediate family (mom, brother and sister) are not allowed to unsubscribe. Everyone else, even family, will incur no bad feelings for unsubscribing. My immediate family doesn’t actually incur bad feelings either, they just get resubscribed!

Update: If you would like to keep your subscription but change your email address contact me as well. It’s an easy change on my end.

The streets are empty around my neck of the woods and it seems everyone’s left for spring break. I was thinking about my trip around Europe during spring break in 1998 and took a look at my gigantic photo albums. Some of you may have heard me reference my cartwheel photos before, although I often don’t post them here. Many of my cartwheel photos from that trip were shot in multiple frames, like a collage. I have to say, I don’t miss film! Here’s two of my “spring break 1998″ cartwheels:

Taken in Marienplatz, the main square of downtown Munich, Germany. I think my travel wardrobe has become much more conservative over the years. You can see I brought a translucent orange raincoat with me on this trip. Even that wasn’t as bad at the bright red pants I wore in Peru a few years later.

Where’s Megan? I’m right in front, look closer. This is the Durmo in Florence, Italy. I remember being impressed by it’s size. The sign at the top of this shot is proof that professional photographers are not always the best cartwheel photographers.

Me-go Mix: Track 4
“Raat Baaki” — DJ Akbar Sami
To download using Windows “right click” and save to disk. Mac users, you know what to do.

Chowpatty Beach in Mumbai (Bombay) at sunset. Behind me is a busy six lane road, a Baskin Robbins and a Levi’s store. Despite that, this scene feels like it fits the song.

One of my last stops in India was Bangalore where I stocked up on guidebooks for Jordan and Egypt. At the bottom of my shopping bag among half a dozen glossy flyers and ads was a free CD sampler featuring remixed songs from popular movies. “Raat Baaki” is a remix of a song from the 1982 Hindi Bollywood film Namak Halaal. Here’s a link to a short scene from the movie where the original version of “Raat Baaki” is sung. Below is a short live version of the song with different singers than my mp3.