I’ve been in Antananarivo (hereby called “Tana”), Madagascar for a few days now. Coming in from the airport I was struck with the overwhelming character the town has compared to Addis Ababa or Nairobi. I can’t remember the last time I saw peaked roofs! The road into town reminded me of a mix between Africa, France and the Bahamas with peaked, shingled roofs and brightly painted houses. The central area of town, where I’m staying, is much more French-inspired architecturally with cast iron balconies and steep cobblestone streets.
By the time I arrived in town the banks were closed and I found myself without money, once again. I ate at my hotel and researched how to get money the following day. Because my Visa card was cancelled I only have Mastercard or American Express travelers checks. I tried The Hilton first but the Amex office that I read about didn’t exist.
The first bank I tried didn’t take checks and recently stopped taking Mastercard. The second bank did take travelers checks (not Mastercard) but wouldn’t cash the checks without a receipt. And, as it turned out, it only took Euro checks, not US dollars. I have used travelers checks as emergency funds for ten years and have never been asked for a receipt. In fact, I’ve never been issued a receipt when I’ve purchased checks—ever. And I’ve never seen anyone carry Euro travelers checks! Finally, the third bank took Mastercard and overlooked my lack of receipt, I could eat.
There’s not too much to do around town and I’m hanging around, waiting for a FedEx to arrive from America. Every once in a while I think of something else that I should have asked my mom to put in the FedEx (afterbite… ziplock bags!). The more time I spend sitting in the capital the more nervous I get about finding travel partners. I just need someone to take the river to Morondova with. Even if I could afford it alone it would be pretty boring that way. I have only met one budget traveler so far, everyone else being French-speaking with big pockets.
31 responses to “Empty Pockets in an Island Capital”
First!
Hopefully a group of budget travellers seeking travel buddies will come your way.
Good luck! Seems like Madagascar seems to be as exotic as is can get…you are the only person I know who’s been there. Are there direct flights to/from Paris?
Nice Site. 🙂
Hang in there Megan, I’d personally love to travel with you, but I’m just starting the Middle East. Your travels from Adias to Nairobi goes down as the most hardcore journey I have ever heard of.
You are an inspiration!
Matthew
Write more, that is a fascinating country! Pictures, preeeety please! 🙂
Wow, cool site, Megan! We are on a multi year open ended RTW trip too and I can’t help wondering if my 6yo daughter might end up exploring like you when she is older.
You are an inspiration…much luck and light to you!
Oops, it’s late and I should be in bed, so I forgot to leave my correct website incase you wanted to know what the heck I was talking about when you had time:
http://www.soultravelers3.com/
I am a tech dummie just making it all up as we go,so forgive me my clueless mistakes. I just wanted to leave a little encouragement and pat on the back from a fellow traveler.
Unlike you, I am a scaredy-cat adventurer. 😉
Hi there, I am going to Mada next Wednesday with my boyfriend, probably following in your footsteps. We went to Zanzibar last week, and have beenliving in Dar for 6 months. Have a great trip. Just wondering what hotels you’d recommend so far? Sorta hard to make reservations on this side of things….
Thanks ! And enjoy the trip! If we meet up, I’ll treat you to a meal (I still have my credit card).
Just visited the website. congratulations on your effo rts. we look forward to seeing you when you return. travel safely, I can’t wait to read the book!
It’s bizarre, I’m in England right now (Cornwall, to be exact) and the bank I’ve always used to cash my amex traveler’s cheques no longer takes them. They did last year but don’t do so now. I have no idea what I’ll do the next time I travel to England.
May your most important package arrive soon and may you see lemurs!
Less fun in madagascar, more internet blogging about fun in madagascar!
I think she got eaten by lemurs…
I call the chair
Just wondering if you are ok.
For the record, the Lisa above was not your sister Lisa, I know you would have escaped the Lemurs.
To the sister who is also Lisa ,
I just need to know that your sister is OK.
I know it is silly, I don’t really know her, but the mother in me keeps worrying about her.
L
Hi guys,
I havent’t been eaten by a lemur but one did try to eat my lunch yesterday at Isalo National Park. I’ve had no internet access up to now and even the fabulous post I just wrote to update you guys can’t be posted. I’m been having some sort of firewall problem and all the solutions require me to mess with the browser settings but the browser is in French so it’s not possible.
Lucas,
I think my brother has dibs on the chair since he’s the one who drove to the airport… in leu of the beer payment I’ve promised him, of course.
Whoo hoo!! Good to hear you’ve bested the lemurs. Can’t wait to read your next post. And look at lemur photos!
Lisa, I don’t blame you for worrying! One time she disappeared for a few weeks and I got worried and started emailing some of her friends to see if they heard from her and was starting to think about calling U.S. embassies. Megan didn’t like that too much so I had to make sure she didn’t think I was checking up on her again – I didn’t want to get in trouble. She does go for weeks without communication which drives our mom crazy. But if she is eaten by lemurs, I call dibs on the rug, her CD collection and her fabulous jacket collection.
Ahhhh, thanks for checking in. Now I can relax and enjoy the travels again!
The Other Lisa
Han,
I considered sending you some posts to put up… remember when I gave you admin access just in case? But then I figured you were busy convincing your significant other to go for teh meat cake.
Lisa,
You can’t handle my jacket collection! And, for the record, I don’t really go weeks without communicating with anyone although I do admit that I rarely call.
Hmmm… meat cake….
Even though I’m bad at responding to email, I always read your posts and comments. I have no problem posting for you, if you like. You can always make tweaks to the posts once you have access again. I promise an email this weekend!
Who’s to say I haven’t been wearing you jackets while you have been away. Bwahahahahaha
ok ok ok how’s this… i call the d70 and the 18-200 VR*
*assuming lemurs don’t eat it
Wow Megan, you’re almost to 365 days! I commiserate with you, I’m in Syria right now and I’m sure my poor parents are going to be basket cases because they are so worried! I love to point out your site, see mom and dad, at least I’m not traveling from Ethiopia to Kenya by pickup truck (or whatever you rode in).
So what are your plans for the big 1 year anniversary???
Matthew
Now that I have internet I can answer some of your questions. I’ve been especially bad at answering email this month so hang it tight if you’re waiting for a response.
Stu,
There are tons of direct flights from Paris. Air France, Air Madagascar and Corsair fly here—some daily. A lot of French tourists tell me they fly on Corsair round trip from Paris for 500-600 Euros. There are even direct flights to Nosy Be, a resort island in the north. Some Canadians opening a hotel in Nosy Be tell me that they’re starting direct flights from Jo’Burg (South Africa) to Nosy Be as well. They’re planning on targeting the growing South African market.
Otherwise if you want to get here you’re going to fly from either Kenya (once a week), South Africa or through an island in the East like Mauritus or Reunion. My flight round trip from Nairobi on Air Mad was $613 USD. So if you’re coming from the US your cheapest option is rpobably flying through Paris. And, Stu, I think you’re still in Europe so you would want to look for a charter flight out of Paris.
Matt,
I’m sure you will have plenty of adventures. I guess the trip was hard core but I only wish I had the guts to take some photos. I didn’t want to bring out the $2,000 camera in that cage. Hey, once when I was traveling in Peru my bus was held up by banditos. That sounds hard core or interesting but it just came down to paying them $2 each.
Jeanne,
I hope your daughter has an adventurous spirit and doesn’t cause you too much worry! My mom doesn’t complain too much but my dad was much more excited about my trips to the middle of nowhere than she is.
Heather,
Sorry we haven’t met up. I suspect you’re down South by now.
Ali,
Ahh, England. Did you have to sell an arm or a leg to buy dinner there? When I was living there in ’97 it was expensive enough before the Dollar took a swan dive. I hear the Canadian Dollar is almost 1 to 1 now! Anyway, someday you will be back in the ATM card game with the rest of us. then it’s easy to get money almost anywhere.
Han,
For the record I did not receive your weekend email. And I was going to buy you a lemur t-shirt. You have to earn it!
Lucas,
I think the camera would be too big to eat. Only the Indri would be able to get it down and I’ve safely returned from that part of my trip.
Matt,
You will be in my shoes soon enough. Syria’s not so bad. I’ve met lots of tourists that don’t die there! You can send that info along to the parents. I’ll be in Nairobi for my 1-year anniversery and it will depend on who’s staying at the hostel I suppose. If I make friends maybe I can get a group to go to the resturaunt where they serve you massive amounts of exotic meat. I’m not so into meat but it’s just one of those things to do in Nairobi. A good anniversery present would be if Spiderman 3 is still playing when I get back but I’m not holding my breath.
And Lisa, you know I will know what stuff you’ve touched. Like I know that the last time I left you took my dark gray JCrew sweater and I never got it back.
Megan,
I am a fellow Chicagoan, grew up in Oak Park, went to University in Victoria, B.C. and have been calling home Austin, Tejas, the “live music capital of the world” and something else we share an avid appreciation for along with photography (you have some AMAZING photos; I am personally working on my underwater photo skills!). For the past 10 weeks I have been in the Seychelles, just this week (June 20th, 2007) completing a Global Vision International (www.gvi.com) sea coral surveying/conservation program as a volunteer. I quite happy that I came across your info on the Lonely Planet’s ThornTree list serve and wanted to inquire in more detail about your travels through Madagascar as I will be there for three weeks in July; just missed you! I am especially interested in the Tsiribihina River paddle (did you go with an english speaking guide and what would you recommend logistically)? What other towns, national parks and hostels were you most impressed with – After reading your quiry and travel plans on the ThornTree it just so happened that my initial itineray pretty much parallels your’s in Madagascar (I also plan on doing the train ride from Fiana to the coast) including plans on traveling to Zanzibar in August, meeting a friend from Austin after she finishes a volunteer program in Tanzania teaching local students to teach other students about AIDS awareness. Did you make it to the north end of the island (either Mad or Zan) where I have heard the SCUBA diving is excellent? Feel free to give any and all suggestions (that you would have time for) as to places to stay or “must see” in either Madagascar or on Zanzibar. Will you be going through Swaziland or Kruger whilst in Africa?
Cheers to your and your Chutzpah, and safe travels! I look forward to continue to follow your adventures,
Bill
Bill,
Small world, I was born in Oak Park.
As for the Tsiribihina River, I had a hard time finding people to go with. I emailed a few people in advace who’s email I got from guidebooks or online from reccomendations. Some came back with crazy quotes like 700 Euros for 7 days.
It came down to 2 people, but one had a group going the next day and the other didn’t have any details. The one I didn’t go with was actually more responsive and I would have liked to go with them. That person is based in Antsirabe and is in the LP guidebook as Desire. I am not sure if it’s a man or woman but they were speedy with responses. Most people in Antsirabe quoted 300 Euro but I got them down to 280… that was low season though. Expect to see lots of tourists in July and August. At the swimmiong waterfall I stopped at on the river my group was alone but I was told there’s sometines 100 tourists there at one time during high season. Oh, and I dind?t actually do any paddling, there’s men who do that for you.
So I dind?’ have much choice. There was only one group going, all young French kids. They were nice but it was hard to talk at night and you can’t read by one candle. There should be more people going in high season but I would email around ahead of time if you can plan ahead. If you have time to hang out for a week then you should be fine. My guide was named Laza and I contact his company through Robinson Corusoe, who’s in the Lonely Planet. Robinson is Laza’s apprentice but he speaks better English. I wasn’t happy with Laza’s English. He would speak in French for 30 minutes and then turn to me and say “that’s an old tree” or something. One of the French girls was really nice and tried to help translate but that’s not fair for her. I think if it was an all English group the English woul dhave been fine but if you’re a mixed group much more French will be spoken.
I hear from people that the train ride is awesome so try to do that. I didn’t get North of the Indri Park East of Tana and I haven’t been to Zanzibar yet. I will be in Tanzania most of July thoguh so shoot e an email and I can give you siggestions then. So far people tell me the very North of Zanzibar or on the East, Puje (or is it Paje?) is good. No Swaziland or SA for me either.
So, my favorite hotel in Tana is called Tana-Jarcadia. They are really nice and speak some English. They even take Visa. The rooms are small but it’s will decorated and clean. It’s about 2 minutes downhill walk from the more popular budget hotel in Haute-ville (maybe it’s Isaraka or something)… sorry, I left my book sand notes in Nairobi and can’t remember all the names. You can book by email. The airport pickup is pricey but the husband actually woke up and drove me to the airport in the family car when I left at 4am. They also have free wireless internet. A single room with non-attached bathroom is 26,000 AA I think. If you go there tell them I sent you, they shoudl remember me.
The single in the cheap place, Isoraka, is like 20,000 but they’re booked up so call or email ahead if you want a specific place.
In Antsirabe I stayed at Billy’s which is brand new but in the center of things. A room was around 15,000. There’s some really nice botique hotels in Mad but I stayed at the cheapest place most of the time.
In Morondava I stayed at L’Oasis which I hated. Then moved across the street to Zoom. It was plain but cleanish, 16,000. The best, non-super expensive place I saw on the penninsula there was at the very far end. I don’t remember the nale but it overlooks the mangrove trees and was more like 24,000 or so. It’s in some guidebooks.
Tulear… either the hotel across from the boat docks to Anakao or the one across from the bus station.
Anakao, I stayed at the place that was farthest from town. Everything is expensive, I paid 30,000 for my cabin and 70,000 for the round trip speed boat. The place next door had cabins for 60,000 but it included 2 meals. One was a 3 course Frenh gastronomique, or whatever it’s called. I call it fancy. It looked good though. At a hotel food will run you around 10,000 without drinks. Bring your own snacks, water etc. I found the place totally boring on my own but it’s supposed to be packed in July. Book ahead.
Ranohira… I stayed at the hotel in the center of town, it’s a man’s first name. I tried the camping blace, Momo’s but it was empty and lonely. Probably will be good in peak season. I paid 16,000 for a single with public cold shower. The other rooms have attached hot showers but are overpriced.
Ambalavao… just walked around but the hotel at the paper factory almost made me want to stay.
Fianar… the hotel across from the train station was full when I arrived so I stayed up the steps from there. The guides say it has good pizza but I nevre saw a resturaunt there. There’s a descent Chinese place called Panda and there’s a supermarket near there that closes around 6 near Panda. They had Western stuff. Those are about 10 minutes walk from the bus station. The banks in Fianar are FAR and UPHILL. I walked but if there’s daylight and you’re tired I might suggest getting a taxi up and walk back.
Ambostra… stayed at a place mentioned as a cheapie with good views. I paid 20,000 for a room with bath and a georgous view. It’ not the one that says it has a good souvenir shop across from it, it’s the other one. But the souvenir shop across from the other hotel is good and the prices aren’t bad. So buy souvenirs in Ambostra or in Tana at the market on the road to the airport. A taxi from Haute-ville cost 10,000 each way. The market in Tana is really long so maybe there’s better deals at the far end.
To get to Ranomafana from Fianar can be done as a day trip. If you get to the bus station before 7am you can get a bus out to the park. Get dropped at the park, the ride takes 1.5 hours. Then you might have to wait for the bus back, I waited beside the road for 2 hours, but I was back before dark. The bus there is 5,000.
I went all the way from Ambostra to the park with the Indris in one day but it was tough. I took a 5 hour bus to Tana, a taxi 45 mins across the city, another bus to the town before the park and then another bus to the park. I arrived around 7pm. So from Tana it should be no problem.
If you’re doing the river trip see the Tsingy. But I wasn’t super impressed. Isalo was beautiful, but more like the USA in parts besides the ring tailed lemurs. Good for a hike though, were were walking 10 hours to go to the pool and the waterfall. It’s also the most expensive for guide fees, more than 30,000! I think all parks are 25,000 enterance fee now. Ranomafana was good for lots of stuff and lemurs. The Indri are really cool to see—so huge.
People said good things about Fort Dauphine. Isle St Marie is meant to be the most beautiful island but it rains on and off all year. Bring a French phrasebook, if only to translate the menus!
Let me know if you need any more details.
Hey
I was so excited to see this website. I am myself from Madagascar but I haven’t been home in 3 years now. I left when I was 16 to go to college and I am just starting my senior year.
Anyways, I am going home next summer and I am plannon aing to go on my own “Mada Raid” if anyone is interested to join me.
I have everything planned already.
Leave me a note